I think it
was Yves Saint Laurent (or someone) who once said (something like) ‘fashion is
temporary; style is eternal’ (or something). And do you know what? I believe he
was right. I’ve never been more aware of this than when, a few years back, I
went to an exhibition of fashion through the ages. I forget what period it
covered but all I can remember was that almost every exhibit from the 20th
century was uniquely awful, a catalogue of stylistic horrors, with the
predictable roll call of fashion monstrosities too numerous to list but which
included the predictable shell suits, flares and satin jumpsuits. In fact, all
that stood out as still looking good was an elegant 1920s cocktail dress and a
suit from the 1960s.
Whilst most
people, if not everyone, accept having embarrassing photos of themselves in
their teens in atrocious clothing to all be part of life’s rich tapestry, there
are certain sartorial mistakes that can never be forgiven. For even if you have
a wardrobe of shame filled with all the fashion mistakes you’ve made over the
years, one thing that should never go in there is a suit. This is because a
good suit is eternal, and if you spend money on buying one that attempts to
mess with the winning formula then you deserve to have your money wasted and
you deserve to look stupid. The whole point of a suit being timeless is that
you’re meant to keep it for years. If you buy one in orange and yellow neon you
may find that a few years down the line you find you like it a bit less than
you did when you bought it.
I was looking
at suits once and the shop assistant unwisely told me that the reason all the
suits they had in stock had unusually long jackets was because Preston from Big
Brother and the Ordinary Boys had worn them. Now, call me naïve, but I would
think that when buying a suit (something you want to keep for many years,
remember) it might be wise not to make your purchase based on the look of
someone whose career, it could reasonably be assumed, wouldn’t be a particularly long one.
Tom Ford
recently complained about a trend for suit jackets so short that you can see a
man’s backside, and he was right to do so. It’s not unusual to see the style pages
of men’s magazines feature letters from people asking whether they should
invest in a suit that shows clear signs of bandwagon jumping (like the vogue a
year or so back for suits with surprisingly short trousers). The advice is
usually to avoid them, and it always should be.
So, for
avoidance of doubt, this is what you should go for when buying a suit:
Single
breasted (double breasted comes in and out of fashion; if you wear one when
they’re out of fashion people will assume you’re going to a gangster and molls
party, which is fine unless you’re going to a funeral. Unless it’s the funeral
of a gangster, I suppose).
Normal length
trousers that break at the shoe (sounds obvious but let’s not forget the trend
for wearing shorter ones; doing that will make you look like your trousers
shrank in the wash or that you’re wearing your brother's hand-me downs).
Normal length
sleeves where you can see a bit of the shirt cuff (sounds obvious, but if suits
can be made with shorter trousers, don’t rule out a similar trend emerging for
sleeves).
It sounds
obvious, I know. But, going back to the point about people writing letters to
men’s magazines asking about the latest suit developments, the reason people
write these letters is because they genuinely have no idea. You’d think anyone
could tell that a suit with trousers that stop at the ankles will look stupid,
but it’s stranger when people ask if they will look stupid in the future. Well,
of course, the answer is yes, because they look stupid now. As for the emerging trend for men wearing suits with shorts, well, I'm not even going to lower myself to comment on that.
And one more
thing: always spend more on a suit than you can afford. This is only partly
because it’s something that will give you many years of usage; it’s more
because if you buy an expensive suit you’ll then have very strong motivation
not to put any weight on as then it will be rendered useless. And, on top of
that, if you buy a really expensive one you’ll be so poor that you won’t be
able to afford much food anyway, and are guaranteed to always fit into it. It’s
a win-win situation.