Sunday, 9 February 2014

Thoughts on Trendy Clothing Brands – Religion, All Saints and the Kooples – and Why I Love One, am Indifferent To Another and Hate the Third


So, three brands, all with superficial similarities… Kind of trendy-ish, sort of East London/Shoreditch (except the Kooples, which I think may be French). But in the same way that I love Def Leppard but can’t stand any other hair metal (apart from Livin’ on a Prayer of course but, come on, we’ll take that as read), I somehow find that I really like one of them, hate another and am indifferent to the third. But there must be reasons. So I shall try to find out why.

The one I love is Religion. Why? Everything just fits so well! I don’t need to get stuff custom made when their stuff fits me so perfectly. It’s almost like they design it with me in mind. I’m proud to say I have three leather jackets from there, and the arms even taper towards the hand like my actual arms do. How did they even know that? I also got the best pair of jeans I’ve ever had from there. Once again, perfect. And don’t even get me started on the t-shirts.

The funny thing is that I first discovered them in New York, in the legendary Century 21, which, in case you don’t know, is kind of like a cool version of TK Maxx, in that it largely seems to sell discounted stuff from previous seasons but actually has a good range rather than row after row of polo shirts. So then I went through the slightly odd routine of going from London to New York and buying clothes from a company down the road from where I live and taking them back to London. I’ve got t-shirts with more air miles than me. But I suppose they keep it cool by only having a few outlets (even if one of them is in John Lewis or somewhere).

Then there’s All Saints. Now, I’ve been into their shops perhaps twenty or thirty times but never, ever bought anything. Why? Not sure. I kind of like it and though it’s quite expensive it’s not more so than Religion. But it’s as if, say, their leather jackets never quite get it right. Or their suits can’t quite decide if they want to be trendy or formal. Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure I could make up a decent look from their clothes but… I don’t know…

And then there’s the Kooples. I mean, first of all there’s the name. What’s all that about? How’s it even pronounced, for a start? Is it meant to be a northern pronunciation of ‘couples’ that they’re struggled to render phonetically or is it meant to rhyme with scruples (the way everyone I know pronounces it)? It just doesn’t make sense.

Then there’s the desperately-trying-to-be-cool air about them, trying to portray themselves as edgy but doing so by having huge ads on seemingly every bus in London.  And don’t even get me started on the Pete Doherty collaboration. I mean, really? Pete Doherty? The only people who think he’s cool are people who were fourteen when the Libertines came out and swore that they were inspired by them to become beatnik jazz poets but now all work in offices. I know that for me there’s nothing more reassuring when I buy clothes than knowing
they came about through a totally natural collaboration between two kindred spirits, and certainly not because one of said kindred spirits was a crackhead who urgently needed money to avoid getting a kneecapping from the enforcers of a shady Eastern European drug lord.

Then there are the annoyingly smug adverts. You know, the ones full of annoying trendies with implausible names like Nast and Bambi, who presumably reflect their target audience, which is to say dopey and gullible trustafarians happy to blow their parents’ money on a pair of y-fronts that cost £80. I have obviously never seen their business plan, but I reckon it went something like this: ‘1. Make some clothes. 2. Sell them to idiots in Dalston for ten times what they cost to make. 3. That’s it.’